I see Jack Nicholson right away smiling at me, it’s that wild,l crazy look he has that stands out. He’s wearing his signature Ray Ban sunglasses. Next I notice Ronald Reagan looking much more docile, hiding that power he’s shown he is capable of.

I am looking at signed photos of both of them in the entryway of my favorite Mexican restaurant in L.A.  How many people both famous and unknown have passed across this entrance in the more than 80 illustrious years since it has existed, I wonder.

I am in El Cholo on Western Avenue near downtown L.A. and the University of Southern California campus. The neighborhood is nicknamed Koreatown but all along Western Avenue are colorful, naively painted Latin fast food restaurants and taquerias. L.A. is quite a place, nothing like it anywhere else in the world. L.A. is in California (of course), formerly called Alta California when the Mexicans still owned it. It was Mexican territory up until 1847 when the gringos took over.

Present day L.A. is experiencing a dynamic, dramatic shift in demographics. The Latin community is taking back the power in a peaceful non-violent way. For the first time since being a part of the U.S.A., Los Angeles has a Mexican mayor. The largest settlement of Mexicans is Mexico City, with more than 20 million inhabitants. The second largest settlement is L.A. and has been for some years.

El Cholo has its origins in the Mexican community and has remained a vivid, vital part of it today. When entering Cholo’s parking lot, I am greeted by Alma. It is before opening hours and she, as General Manager, is looking after the whole operation. I learn later that Alma has been with Cholo for 20 years. She came to the U.S. at age 4 from Mazatlan, Mexico. I can see that Alma puts her heart and soul into her work at El Cholo and she takes full “Latin Hospitality” care of me.

Alma is not the only Mexican who works at Cholo nor is she the only one who has been there so long. She tells me about a cook who has been there 40 years and a server who has been there for 30. Joe Reina started with Cholo in 1932 as a dishwasher and because of his talent and ambition quickly moved to the position of Head Chef. This was a position he was to hold for 54 years. This is an incredible amount of time to those who know the usual rapid turnover of restaurant and bar staff.

I go to sit at the large bar which is well filled with a generous selection of good tequilas. The whole bar back is tequila with a few bottles of scotches, rums, and vodkas below the bar. There is a soccer game playing on TV. The narration is in Spanish and all the staff communicate in Spanish. Jesus, who is serving me at the bar, is very friendly and professional. He has been in the U.S. for 10 years. He came from Guerrero and works the daytime bar. He is waiting for a job as a server at Cholo because the money is good. He has a wife and two kids.

I have a margarita. Of all the hundreds I’ve drank and millions (a true figure) I’ve served in my places, this is still a classic. It is delicious and I can’t put the glass down between sips because it is so moorish (a term the British use for something that a consumer wants more of). In this case more is more.
Cholo is well-known for its margarita. They pioneered the renowned Cuervo 1800 margarita which L.A. Magazine and TV Channel 4 News have named as the “Best in L.A.” Cholo now serves over 2,000 margaritas a day and has become the single largest purchaser of Cuervo 1800 in the world. Their margarita is served in a large 16-ounce sturdy glass like a Boston shaker glass. Most are served on the rocks as blended tends to dilute too much.

Ron Salisbury, the grandson of the founders of Cholo, tells me the story of the origins of their famous cocktail at a lunch we had at The Cannery, one of their other restaurants. It was 1967 when Cholo started with margaritas. They were pretty low quality and were not given much attention since Ron’s father was against serving liquor in the restaurant to begin with. A customer came in and pointed out that the margarita was not so good. He took Ron to his own restaurant and showed him how to make the now-famous Cholo margarita. The recipe for the margarita calls for frozen lime juice, sugar, sweet and sour, orgeat, water, Cointreau, 1800 reposado tequila, and Cuervo white and gold tequilas.

Ron tells me that when they play with re-doing their margarita recipe they find that changing one ingredient radically alters the whole thing. He says it is truly a symphony. From this statement I am reminded what a high quality person Ron is.

Ron tells me that at their Sonora Café when the customers start with margaritas, they stay with them through their meal instead of going the customary way of drinking wine with their food. Sonora Café is one of six other restaurants owned by the Salisbury family. It is famous for its innovative Southwestern cuisine looked after by Executive Chef Felix Salcedo.

I ask Ron about his business and its relationship to tequila. “Being that we are known as a tequila and margarita house, and have ordered large amounts of tequila for approximately 40 years, tequila makers and distributors usually come to us to taste new products available. We have a good list of popular tequilas, and now when looking for additions we add the anejos and reposados to offer more sipping tequilas. We offer tequila tastings, and have printed tequila lists.”

“We like to have approximately 50 tequilas on our list … you have the staples of Cuervo, Don Julio, Sauza, and Patron … names people recognize immediately … then the other half of the list is with premium selections that we like to talk [about] and describe and sample to the guests, bringing new ones in here and there to keep it fresh.”

“We think more guests are aware of the complexities of tequila now, the 100% blue agave, and the aging process. Before it seemed people knew only about golds and blancos”.

Back at Cholo in L.A., I ask Jesus behind the bar for a second margarita. One is not enough. I am already feeling “16 onces” of good. Jesus offers me the premium margarita called the “Gran Traditional” which is Cuervo Traditional, Herradura Silver, Cointreau, and a float of Cuervo Reserva de la Familia.  It is stunning in its complexity and appeal. My long-time close buddy, Dick Stevenson, tries the L.A. Lemonade. This is the second most popular margarita at Cholo’s. It was the result of playing around, looking for a new, innovative combination of flavors. It’s made with the Cholo basic mix with Herradura Silver, Sauza Conmemorativo, 1800, and Cointreau. It is hand shaken and served on the rocks in a large glass. I try it; it is stronger in alcohol and drier, less sweet than the margarita. It is uniquely delicious. I want to drink both my own drink and his.

There is a Cadillac Margarita which is made with 1800 Tequila with a shot of Gran Marnier on the side. Also on the menu are fruit margaritas made with a choice of strawberry, mango, coconut, banana, pink guava, green apple, peach and pineapple.

My lunch is beautifully presented. I have the chile rellenos plate. Alma has kindly given me one of each choice of chile. One is a traditional and the other a new one done in “nouvelle cuisine” style. This seems representative of Cholo’s on-going success, keeping the standards that work and looking always to new, innovative, quality products.

As I leave, saying thanks and good-bye to the staff, as well as to Jack Nicholson and Ronnie Reagan, I see an odd gadget on the reception counter. Alma notices my interest and tells me that this little walkie-talkie thing is a pager for customers who are waiting for a table in this 400-seat restaurant. Alma says that they have 30 of them which means they have rather large waiting lists. Well done, Cholo, a friend to both famous and less famous people looking for an extraordinary experience.